A person applying a gentle milky cleanser to their face, symbolizing a balanced skincare routine for oily dehydrated skin.
Health & Wellness

The Oily-Yet-Dry Paradox: Expert Solutions for Balanced Skin

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In the intricate world of skincare, it’s common to encounter concerns that seem to contradict each other. From sensitive, blemish-prone complexions to ruddy skin with an oily T-zone, our skin often presents a unique tapestry of challenges. Among the most perplexing, and surprisingly common, is the phenomenon of “oily dehydrated skin” – a complexion that feels slick with oil on the surface yet parched and lacking moisture beneath.

Understanding the Oily-Yet-Dry Paradox

This counterintuitive condition is a frequent observation among skincare professionals. As celebrity esthetician Aida Bicaj explains, “Oily dehydrated skin is the residue of oiliness on the surface of the skin and then dry underneath in the lower levels of the skin.” The underlying cause, she notes, is often an imbalance triggered by well-intentioned but misguided skincare habits.

Many individuals, upon noticing excess oil, instinctively reach for harsh, stripping cleansers, engage in aggressive over-exfoliation, and even skip essential moisturization. This approach, however, backfires dramatically. When the skin’s protective barrier is compromised and moisture is depleted, it sends signals to the sebaceous glands to produce even more oil in an attempt to compensate and protect itself. This creates a frustrating and persistent cycle: the more you try to strip away oil, the more your skin produces, leaving it feeling tight and dry internally while appearing shiny externally.

Aida Bicaj’s Expert Routine for Balanced Skin

If this scenario resonates with your own skincare struggles, fear not. Aida Bicaj, a renowned esthetician, offers a meticulously crafted balancing routine designed to break this cycle and restore harmony to your complexion. Her philosophy centers on moderation, gentle care, and addressing both external and internal hydration.

1. Embrace a Gentle, Milky Cleanser

One of the most critical steps, according to Bicaj, is choosing the right cleanser. “One of the biggest mistakes I see people make is using the wrong face cleanser—so many people use these stripping gels that remove the productive oils from the face,” she cautions. Instead, she advocates for a soft, milky cleanser. These formulations effectively remove dirt, makeup, and impurities without stripping the skin of its natural, protective oils, thereby preventing the overproduction of sebum.

2. Practice Mindful Exfoliation with a Gentle Toner

While over-exfoliation is a significant contributor to skin imbalance, Bicaj emphasizes that gentle, consistent exfoliation is beneficial. She recommends incorporating a very light exfoliating toner or balancing lotion into your daily routine. This helps to gently slough off dead skin cells, promote cellular turnover, and allow subsequent hydrating products to penetrate more effectively. The key, however, is restraint: avoid potent exfoliating treatments like strong chemical peels or retinoids elsewhere in your routine, as these can push your skin back into an overdrive state.

3. Nourish with a Breathable Moisturizer

Completing your topical routine requires a moisturizer that supports, rather than suffocates, your skin. Bicaj advises using a cream that is non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores) and allows your skin to “breathe.” During colder months or periods of increased dryness, she also suggests incorporating a hydrating mask for an extra boost of moisture.

4. Prioritize Internal Hydration and Nutrition

True skin radiance, Bicaj asserts, begins from within. “Skin care doesn’t take care of the inside of the skin. It only protects the outer layer of the skin,” she explains. To support a healthy, dewy complexion, it’s crucial to maintain a balanced diet rich in antioxidants, healthy fats, and proteins. Adequate water intake is also non-negotiable. For those seeking additional support, skin-supporting supplements can be considered, though always with professional guidance.

The Path to Balanced Skin

Ultimately, resolving oily dehydrated skin is about recalibrating your approach to skincare. It’s a journey back to moderation, selecting products that are neither too heavy nor too potent. With consistent, gentle care and patience, your skin can indeed find its way back to a state of healthy balance, leaving behind the perplexing paradox of oiliness and dryness.

Disclaimer: If you are pregnant, breastfeeding, or taking medications, consult with your doctor before starting a supplement routine. It is always optimal to consult with a health care provider when considering what supplements are right for you.


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